Bluetooth Handsfree Kit
The first non-Subaru mod for the Forester is a Bluetooth handsfree kit. After looking at all the available choices, the Parrot CK-3000 Evolution turned out to be the best one for the Forester. (The 'Evolution' in the name means that it's the second-generation of the CK-3000 kit. Some sellers may be offering cheap deals on the older model, so make sure you get the newest one). Most of the pictures of the CK-3000 I had seen in advertisements showed the controller buttons/knob in two-tone black/grey, but the one I received was labeled 'black edition' and had an all-black controller. It looks really good that way where it was mounted.
Another reason for preferring the CK-3000 over other models from Parrot is that it uses a small, discrete controller. The newer 3100 and 3200 models have huge controllers with LCD screens for caller-ID display. The design of the new Forester dash doesn't have a really good place to mount one of the larger screens that would be at once useful, unobtrusive and original-equipment looking.
Parrot kits in general are the best choice for integrating with the stock audio system since there are custom wiring harnesses available from www.hfvt.com. The wiring harness adapter model HF-NIS-TH2 is the one for the 2009+ Forester and the 2008+ Impreza/WRX. This adapter made the installation really easy and required no hacking of the vehicle harness.
The CK-3000 kit came from Amazon.com, and the adapter harness was ordered from hfvt.com.
The only thing I was unsure about before starting the install was how to remove the trim around the radio. I posted on the subaruforester.org forums, and was directed to a bunch of free PDF downloads from Subaru showing how to install accessories. The instructions for the iPod interface showed how to remove the trim and radio.
Before starting, I had to 'clean up' the Parrot harness and the adapter, using a lot of zip-ties as I usually do. Notice the single yellow wire coiled up and zip-tied to the bundle: That "Mute" wire is NOT used for this installation. After the photo I taped the exposed connector.
This is the adapter harness from HFVT. To the left of the photo is the end that connects to the harness that comes with the Parrot kit. To the right of the photo are the plugs that go between the car and the radio, plus a ground wire.
The Parrot harness has 2 male and 2 female ISO car audio connectors (large, rectangular). Each one has the locking clip 'keyed' in a particular location so that it only fits with it's correct mate. Notice the 3 short wires with labels on them ("Mute In 1/2/3"). Those are NOT used for this installation. I left them sticking out for illustration purposes for this photo, then zip-tied them to the rest of the wiring to keep them out of the way.
The adapter harness has 2 male and 2 female ISO connectors that mate with the corresponding ones on the Parrot harness. They go together one way, so you can't make a mistake.
The other end of the Parrot harness plugs into the blue box, along with the controller and the microphone. The blue box has loops on each corner that make it easy to secure in the car with zip-ties.
In the car, the tool needed to get the trim off is a clean, thin-blade putty knife. You insert it carefully as shown, twist gently, and the trim begins to pop off.
Once you can get your fingers under the trim, remove it carefully starting at the bottom.
Here's the back side of the trim piece so you can see where the tabs are.
With that out of the way, remove the 4 screws holding in the radio and the two holding in the air duct below it.
Remove the radio, and unplug the connectors (wide, narrow, ground, and antenna). Also remove the air duct below it. You will see that behind the air duct & behind the HVAC controls there is a LOT of space that we can use to locate & secure the Parrot box and its bulky wiring harness.
I decided to mount the controller at the top of the mirror/dimmer panel. Start by popping off and removing the dash end piece (black), and removing the two screw you see there holding on the air vent and the dash panel. There's another screw on the side holding on the dash panel that you may want to remove as well (no pic).
Mount the controller at the top of that smooth plastic panel using the supplied adhesive tape. Clean the surfaces well with alcohol and allow to air-dry before applying the adhesive. Run the wire between the vent and the dash panel, and replace the screws you removed earlier. (You may want to notch the panel for pinch-relief on the wire, at your discretion.) DO NOT reinstall the dash end cover yet, you will need to reach in there when you install the microphone next. These photos show the dash all put back together because they were taken after I was completely finished.
Run the controller wire under the dash to the opening where you're going to install the blue Parrot box. No pictures of this, you can figure it out.
I decided to mount the microphone on top of the rear-view mirror, since the auto-dimming mirror has a very thick case and there's already a cable-chase to hide the wire running up to the headliner! The mounting pad and adhesive are supplied, clean the top of the mirror case with alcohol and let air-dry before mounting.
Run the microphone wire by tucking it in along the edge of the headliner. When you reach the 'A' pillar, pop the trim off slightly from the top so you can route the wire behind it without pinching the wire. Run the wire down the side of the 'A' pillar trim nearest the door gasket to the dash. From there you can run it alongside the controller wire over to the centre of the dash. No picture of this either, it's pretty self-explanatory. You can reinstall the dash endpiece now.
All that's left now is the final plug-in. Fit the blue box and the main harness into the dash. Connect the controller and microphone wires to the blue box.
The main metal supports in the dash have holes in them that are perfect for mounting the blue box. Using 2 zip-ties, suspend the box between these holes. Stuff the excess harness wire out of the way in the space behind the HVAC controls, making sure not to interfere with them. Zip-tie as necessary to prevent rattles.
Plug the wide white plug on the car harness into the corresponding female connector on the adapter harness, then plug the remaining wide white make connector into the radio. Attach the ground wire on the adapter harness somewhere (I used the screw on the back of the radio itself, it took a #000 screwdriver to fit it).
Plug the remaining connectors from the car into the radio (narrow white, ground and antenna). Replace the radio and reinstall the 4 screws. Replace the air duct (a little tricky, but not bad, make sure the ducts all line up correctly) and its 2 screws.
Snap the trim piece back on, and you're done!
The Bluetooth kit now works whenever the radio has power. The radio does not need to be 'on' in order for the kit to work. Making or receiving calls mutes the radio, and sends the phone audio over all stereo speakers.
posted by 09ForesterDGM @ 22:22
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